Updated: 20 June 2008
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INVERSE MISSION TO ALBACETE, CASTILLA-LA MANCHA, SPAIN

04 - 07 June 2008

Inverse Mission Organisers First day - Evaluation of wines Bodegas Aresan Bodegas Torneno
The main honchos welcoming the merchant delegation to Villarrobledo, a main town in the heart of Castilla-La Mancha territory and Albacete province. This initiative is organised by CAMARA, the export body of Albacete with the support of Albacete Business Council and the Town Council of Villarrobledo, itself.

Each year, wineries within the province of Albacete within Castilla-La Mancha, are invited to participate in this marketing excercise. Selected wine merchants from around the world are brought into Albacete. This allow these merchants to fully experience and appreciate the original flavour of Albacete. Its food and wines are presented in its natural settings so that the merchants may bring back the experience in promoting these wines.
The first proceedings began in the late afternoon with the speeches followed by a general introductory tasting of the wines. As is usual, platters of tapas accompany the tasting.

The first official dinner follows with a presentation of local specialties to accompany the hosts' wines at each table. This year, NINE wineries agreed to host the delegation.

I was fortunate to join the table hosted by Bodegas Santa Margarita, a upcoming winery which expanded from its main business as a nursery for vines, olive trees and a host of native herbs, fruits and vegetables.

Their blended white wine was a delicious balance of acidity, fragrance and elegance. A table favourite for sure. Such finely balanced white wine was truly unexpected in the region known to be very hot in summer. However, as they pointed out, their night-time temperatures drop drastically to about 10deg C. This factor help the vines to retain the flavours built up during the day. Leaf cover is used to protect against too much sun.

The table was also rather impressed by a 100% Petit Verdot from the same winery. Wonderful elegance exhibiting the characteristic notes of the variety that is seldom mono-varietal. But this wine is complete all by itself with plenty of cellar life left, as well.
The first winery to be ready, the next morning, was Bodegas Aresan. This winery was custom-made by the owner-family with their very capable young son, Aurelio Arenas Sanchez, as winemaker. Marketing man, Daniel Murcia, introduced Aurelio and they proceeded to present their impressive range of both white and red wines.

First off, is the pride of Aurelio. A judicious blend of some 6 varietals, this wine set the benchmark for the winery, by its complexity, completeness and balance. This was followed by Airen, Verdejo, a dry Muscat and an off-dry Gewurtztraminer, to complete the white range.

The red wine list was just as complete with mono-varietals and blends of Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet and touches of Merlot.

This is a winery that will continue to improve with additional age of its vines with good marketing support, as well.
The next winery of note is a maverick of sorts. Innovative and bold, Pascual Tornero, with his 2 brothers tempered by their father, are embarking to raise the profile of Airen. Usually a bulk white wine varietal, Bodegas Tornero have refined their heritage of fine 70-year old vines to coax out the aromatic flavours of this varietal.

Their blending of the other Spanish white varietal, Macebeo (or Viura) for Jazz Min, was an absolute stunner of a white wine blend. All truly a Hispanic expression of the terrior.

They are certainly leading the revival of Airen's fortune and a new way to see this often dismissed varietal.

I was certainly impressed.

Further, their red wines are also worth considering with constant experimentation, which I sampled at the winery (below).
Bodegas Santa Margarita Bodegas Palarea Discussion with Vinos Cambronero & Santa Margarita First delgation members to arrive
A revisit to the Bodegas Santa Margarita's presentation table. Mainly to enjoy their wines with the pretense of re-evaluating them! Vinos Palareaproduces only ONE wine, at this time. However, the pursuit for excellence is evidenced in this one wine. A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah that is made to go on and on. Looks like Australia has just lost its exclusivity over this blend and serious competition has been duly issued. Other wines are on the pipeline but this wine has laid a firm foundation for this quality winery. Lunch with the many winemakers/marketing managers means more drinking and, of course, business discussions. Here, Sally Ong of Asia Wine Network in coversation with Pilar Esteve Ribera (Santa Margarita) and Francisco Cambronero, owner of organic winery, Vinos Cambronero. The first delegation arrivals made it for late lunch at a bar beside the Hotel Juan Carlos 1, our host hotel for the duration. (From left) Darryl Corbett, Metrovino in Calgary (Canada), Remie Law, Happy Vines (Malaysia), Flora Loh, Top Wines (Singapore) and Vikram Sethi, Shervick Services (India). 2 red wines and an array of cold and hot tapas was truly enjoyed by all. What an introduction to Albacete cuisine!
Bodegas Tornero, Villarrobledo Posing in front of Tornero's hand-made winery building The winemaking team of Tornero 70-year old vines of Tornero
By the afternoon of the second day, we proceeded to visit our choice of wineries to develop a better understanding and cement relationships with the owners.

My first stop was Bodegas y Vinedos Tornero, just outside the town of Villarrobledo.

Here, the lineup of their current wines against the backdrop of the stump of a very, very old vine. Besides their current lineup there are, at least, 2 more undergoing experimentation and ageing.
The 2 elder brothers Tornero, proud of their winery building which the family hand-built from scratch. The others in the picture is our British translator and Darryl Corbett of Canada. A photo for the album, (from left), Pascual, the elder Tornero, Remie, Darryl, the elder brother and the baby of the family.

In the background is delighful and off-dry late harvest Cabernet undergoing ageing which Darryl has in the glass.

The potential for this family's winery is huge and one certainly to watch out for the near future.
This is one of the 70-year old Airen vines still producing grapes for their top cuvee. Note the thick trunk below the leaves.
For the record @ Bodegas Ayuso The cellars of Bodegas Aresan Vineyard picnic at Vinos Cambronero The tree on the label of Santa Magarita
A picture for the memories. Vikram Sethi, Shervick Services (India) with Maria Angeles Martinez of Bodegas Ayuso in the ageing cellars. Bodegas Ayuso is one of the larger family-owned wineries in the province producing a wide range of wines from basic wine in-the-box to quality reserve wines for ageing. In contrast, is the new ageing cellar of Bodegas Aresan complete with tasting table. This was one of the more impressive wineries both with its production size, facilities and quality of its wines. The young winemaker has a great future to rise in his chosen profession, having good material and space to do his own thing. Wine sampling with a difference. Sampling the wines that were produced from these very vines is a lesson of cause and effect. Bodegas Carbronero is a certified organic winery producing under the brand name "Franchete". Only red wines are produced here made up of Cabernet, Merlot and Tempranillo. The final stop is at Bodegas Santa Margarita, just a stone's throw from Yecla/Murcia and then to the sea. A full 2-1/2 hour drive on expressways from Villarrobledo, shows the vastness of this province of Albacete. On my right is Pilar, in-charge of marketing their winery venture and on the left is the brother-owner in-charge of the nursery that supplies plantings from olives, herbs, flowers and fruit plus vines throughout the region.

All these wineries are in export mode, seeking new markets for their wines. Bodegas Carbronero was the only organic winery. With its quality, it is a sure sell in many markets whether organic or not. Francisco now has an English/German-speaking Export Manager, Manuel Garcia, to handle international queries. Bodegas Aresan has an impressive range of varietals & blends that will keep any large merchant happy. Plus good support from English-speaking Export Manager, Daniel Murcia. To me, the "most wanted" range of wines are from Bodegas Santa Margarita. English-speaking Pilar, an impressive winery and nursery plus a zoo, actually, and perhaps the best source of raw materials to make wine. Those merchants seeking a wide portfolio ranging from basic to Reserva wines, Bodegas Ayuso is the best candidate. Finally, the specialist merchant looking for terrior-speaking wines should seek out Pascual Tornero (Bodegas y Vinedos Tornero) and Jose Maria Manzanares Palarea (Vinos Palarea).

CLICK HERE for the culinary (food & wine) presentation

 

 

 


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