KOTA KINABALU RESTAURANTS
reviews - May 2008

A couple of days later, I came across an advertisement "French Wine Workshop" at the Hyatt Hotel, Kota Kinabalu. This would be my first foray into the wine drinking community of KK, so could not be missed. Draging my wife's cousin, Jocelyn, along, I signed up for the workshop inclusive of dinner at one of their 3 restaurants. Besides, it was her birthday, too, the day before.

This event is hosted by Sabah's latest wine merchant, AsiaEuro, who is already well established in Kuala Lumpur. They were introducing their Languedoc portfolio, Foncalieu Vignobles, one of the larger wine co-operatives in this vast French region. Their Export Manager, M. Jean-Francois Chabod, was on-hand to talk about their co-operative and show off 4 of their red wines. No white wines were showcased, something rather typical in Malaysia. All were vins de pays and he suggested were specially blended for the Asian palate.

The first wine was a blend of Grenache with dollops of Carignan & Merlot, among the other varietals. Distinctly sweet on the palate, the wine was soft and fruity with no discerning tannins (micro-oxygenation?). A rather pleasant fruit drink with some 12% alcohol.

The remaining 3 wines had a touch more tannin presence and finally the last with some hint of oak. All seemed anonymous in varietal character but supremely drinkable and forgettable.

Mr. Narendra Sinniah, Director of Food & Beverage informs that this is their second foray in a programme to introduce wines to Kota Kinabalu. I would say a good initiative and the choice of wines are a good introduction to enjoying this beverage. They have avoided the usual mistake of showcasing dry, tannic red wines or dry white wines that would turn off many a novice.

Since Jocelyn particularly enjoyed the last wine, a simple request for a remaining bottle to accompany our dinner at their Japanese restaurant, was acceded with grace. This would be highly improbable in snooty Singapore. Thus, we were ceremoniously led to the restaurant, presented to our table with the bottle duly served for us. Glass stemware, again, but of course. However, no mention of corkage, which is something I'll really enjoy dining in emerging wine markets.

Now, we were warned by our Japanese wine companions, earlier, that Hyatt's Japanese restaurant caters to local NOT Japanese tastes. I found it an intriguing comment and resolved to find out what they meant. Then, I shall pay their recommended authentic Japanese restaurant a try, too.

Service, although not refined, is pleasant and efficient enough.

The set dinner menu started with a amuse bouse of poached fish in Chinese fermented soya bean sauce. Almost Japanese but not quite, mainly lacking the hint of bonito flavour.

The main bento set revealed more local "tastes" influence. A dipping bowl of chillies in black soya sauce. The miso soup wasn't up to my expectations. The tempura was well done except that the good-sized prawn was less than fresh. The biggest concession to local tastes was the main dish that initially attracted me to this set option. - unagi. I was looking forward to a soft & oily portions of unagi slathered with sweet sauce and lightly grilled over charcoal. Instead, the unagi was presented as battered and breaded fish fingers that congealed the soft flesh due to the deep-frying. I fully understand the gentle warning, now.

The cost of this experience was reasonable at RM75 per person.

I look forward to their next monthly wine event, next month.