Updated: 31st August 2001
(These pages are updated early/end each month with revisions as news breaks - check-in here often)
PANEL TASTING - AUGUST 2001
The Panel: 3 wine professionals, 5 serious consumers
THE WINES
1.
MUSCAT de TOKAY 1999, HETSZOLO, Tokaj region, Hungary
Buy From: S L Vintage, Jus de Vie & selected retail outlets.
Retail:
$29.00
This white wine is made from the unique Muscat Lunel (Yellow Muscat) variety that is typical of the Tokaj region of Hungary. Tokaj is famous for their legendary Tokaji Aszu & Essencias, prized by Czars & Royalty of Old European Empires. The Yellow Muscat is blended with Furmint & Harslevelu, two other Hungarian grape varieties to create Tokaji Aszu. The greater the proportion of Muscat in the blend, the more prized the Tokaji Aszu, thus fetching higher prices.
This wine is made in the modern style with little noticeable oxidative properties compared to the old style. However, the love of semi-sweet wines remain and is retained in this wine. Funky flavours of elderflower, hints of lemon & bubblegum was profuse in the nose that makes this wine utterly attractive at the outset. On the entry, a pleasant mouthfeel, but was without too much impact causing some disappointment after a promising nose. However, this wine improves & evolves in the glass showing good potential but not quite making it beyond a pleasant casual drink that will not break the bank.
Enjoy this wine on its own or at Tea Time with biscuits, out on the patio.
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2.
PINOT NOIR 1999, VYLIAN, Hungary
Buy from: S L Vintage & selected retail outlets. Retail: $39.50
This is a Pinot Noir ready to create some controversy among Pinot Noir enthusiasts in a blind tasting. Here is a pleasant enough example with hints of liquorice & farmyard on the nose. The palate is light with hints of pepper & even sandalwood. A more severe cropping could have helped create a more fruit driven wine, but alas, now simply an interesting wine to talk about.
Again, a pleasant wine during early evening, with pretensions, although the price might be a touch prohibitive for some.
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3/4.
MERLOT 1999, CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1999, MARGALIT, Israel
Samples, for information only. Projected Retail: $60.00
These two wines were added to provide panellists with a feel of wines coming out of Israel. These were brought back from Vinexpo for assessment. Made by a fairly new winery, being established in 1989 on the upper River Galilee. At about 10 years, the vines are just beginning to show some maturity but still lacking in depth. The 1999 Merlot nosed of faint cherry & vanilla cake. Acidity was a touch high but generally good mouthfeel without depth in flavour. The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon showed violets & blackcurrants on the nose. A little more weight compared to the Merlot, which should be expected from this variety.
I would compare them to Australian wines in the $18-$25 price range, thus, their asking prices are for patriotic customers only.
On the other hand, I sampled THREE other Israeli wines at
Vinexpo that demanded serious attention. These were the "C" Chardonnay
1999, Petit Castel 1999 & Castel Grand Vin 1997 from Domaine du Castel. The
owner, Eli G Ben-Zaken, is featured as one of the memorable faces in our
TRAVELOGUE section (http://www.happyvines.com/0618.htm). This was borne out
subsequently by his wines being selected among the top wines in
"DECANTER". Prices, again, is not cheap with the Petit Castel at about
$60.00 for Singapore.
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5. SOVEREIGN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1997, HASELGROVE, McLaren
Vale, South Australia
Importer: Barossa International (http://www.happyvines.com/Barossa) &
selected restaurants. Price: ~$25.00.
This
is the value series by Haselgrove & at 5 years, it is beginning to show some
maturity. However, the wine remain dark red. Blackcurrant, capsicum & stewed
caramel showed on the nose. A good fruity entry with softened tannin. Well
balanced & offering overall good mouthfeel without a high degree of
complexity.
A good quaffing wine & at the right price direct from Barossa International.
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6.
ANTIGUAS RESERVA 1997 CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
COUSINO MACUL, Chile.
Buy from: S L Vintage & leading retail outlets. Retail: $33.00
Cousino Macul is one of the major &
reputable wineries from Chile. This wine has developed nose of mature Cabernet
& full in the mouth. Good length on the finish.
Enjoy with a good steak in red wine sauce.
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7. CEREMONIA RESERVA 1996, BODEGAS GANDIA,
Utiel-Requena, Spain
Buy from: Chine. (Newly arrived, no price yet)
This wine is the beloved 'baby' of the Gandia
group, the largest Spanish wine exporter. In recent years, they have expanded
their vineyard holdings & begun to concentrate in producing a range top
quality wines to complement their very affordable range. They have even newly
purchased a La-Rioja vineyard to offer wines from that region, previously
lacking in their portfolio.
The Ceremoia Reserva is dark red in colour. Violets & warmed butter &
plum intermingle with a hint of the sea on the nose. The entry appeared thin
on the first sip but with some time in the glass, the weight of the wine
improved. Similarly, on the mouthfeel, the flavours expanded given time to
offer a rather complex wine & quite satisfying.
Depending on the price finally quoted, this should be a rather substantial
wine at a very attractive price.
Enjoy with a good Spanish meal at STREETERS (35 Keong Saik Road, Tel: 221 1997)
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THREE additional wines were tasted, the following week to complement the range above.
8. MARLBOROUGH PINOT NOIR 2000, SHINGLE
PEAK, New Zealand
Buy from: Happy Vines Pte Ltd & selected restaurants & winebars.
Price: $35.00 (arrival due October 2001)
The grapes from this vineyard is becoming more substantial, year to year as the
vines mature. This 2000 vintage shows more weight than the rather lightweight
but extremely drinkable 1999. Fruit flavours of ripe cherry & boiled sweets
are now more intense. On the palate, it is still a light Pinot Noir style for
easy drinking compared to its 'big' brother Petrie Pinot Noir from Wairarapa. In
the glass, this wine continue to evolve showing intense cherry, then a hint of
farmyard, then the cherry becoming lightly sour before showing its natural
sweetness in boiled sweets. On the palate, it is light but attractively so,
filling the mouth & ending with a medium finish.
As with most Pinots, do not underestimate its power to go with both delicate
dishes or more substantial meat casseroles.
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9. DRY GROWN GRENACHE 1998,
HUGO WINERY, Mclaren Vale, South Australia
Buy from: Happy Vines Pte Ltd. Retail: $35.00
Another complex wine that is not quite evident on first pouring. The sweet jammy flavours were subdue, at first. With time in the glass, the weight of this wine become more evident. This wine is still relatively young at 3 years, with intense power & good tannin structure that will allow it to mature with grace. The sweet jammy fruit need time to develop both in the bottle or, if you'd like to drink now, decant for about one hour. A good alternative grape variety to Australian Shiraz, if you are looking for a change in flavours ........ but not too much.
Here is a wine to go with substantial meat dishes.
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10. CHATEAU DUHART-MILON
ROTHCHILD 1994, Pauillac, France
Buy from: HappyVines.com online at http://home.pacific.net.sg/~hvpl/Online.htm
$50.00 till 10 Sept
A 4th-growth classified Chateau that the Rothschilds of Lafite purchased in
1962. Its badly maintained vineyards were uprooted & re-planted afresh &
here we are seeing the results of new investment in neglected vineyards. At
about 40 years, the vines are finally showing some substantial fruit &
staying power. The 1994 vintage was good for Bordeaux although hints of green
tannins are evident is less substantial wines. This wine offer a nose of "Lafite"
violets & ripe cassis and is already approachable immediately in the glass.
It becomes more attractive after more time & swirling. A medium-bodied wine
that offer a good Cabernet lashed to a firm backbone of tannin & acidity.
Can't go wrong with a classified growth at this tremendous price.
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