Updated: 21st January 2002

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PANEL TASTING - JANUARY 2002

A Panel of: 5 Wine Professionals & 3 serious Consumers

Host Venue: Jus de Vie, 2nd level, Wheelock Place

The Theme: New Portfolios

General Comments: THREE new portfolios were presented from The Ukraine, Riverina, Australia and Pflaz, Germany.

The Wines
Novy Swet, Crimea, The Ukraine. Wines from the range from Eastern Europe was assessed within their traditional style & main markets versus the expectations of the international market. In this context, the wines adhered to the traditional style with little attempt to conform to international expectations. However, there were glimpses of potential if investment in new technology were forthcoming. The wine that showed the best potential was their sparkling wine - Novy Swet Brut 1998. This wine was a confusing blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, & Aligote. However, it showed a pleasant nose of floral accents. The initial entry was sweet & well-balanced on the palate. Obviously, some care was taken in the making of this wine, perhaps, the best grapes of the harvest went into this wine. However, using Champagne as a benchmark, this wine certainly do not have the main elements of dryness (although marked Brut) & lacked the autolysis characters of a Champagne. It was sparkling wine in the Eastern European style. Price-wise, it should have to compete in the category of Cold Duck & other entry-level Sparkling Wines with noticeable residual sugar. 

The white wines were generally overoaked with, probably old local oak or from Slovenia, without sufficient ripeness in the wine. The Pearl of Inkerman 1994 was a new white variety to the panel - Rkatziteli, of which there was no comparison to speak of. It is mentioned in Jancis Robinson's work but sadly without any description at all. What we tasted was a honeyed mellony nose but, sadly, whatever fruit flavours that existed was overwhelmed by 3 years in oak. 

Two red wines followed. The Ruby of Khersones was an easy drinking red wine blend of Merlot & two native varieties - Saperavi & Bastardo. It was in a semi-sweet style that is enjoyed by Eastern Europeans but with less impact for the international market. The Cabernet Sauvignon was probably overcropped.

The final three wines were dessert wines & Novy Swet is in familiar territory. Sevastopol 1994 was a fortified white wine from a blend of grapes. It offered lovely sweet flavours of orange peel & honey, although the alcohol was volatile. The Chersoneses Mystery 1994 a sweet red wine that should appeal to novices, who wished to savour red wine rather than red. The Old Nektar 1995 was in the Tokaji style with flavours of blackcurrant & blackberry raisins & orange peel. A rather complex wine, harking back to the "good, old days".

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Riverina Estate, NSW, Australia. This is the largest winery in the Riverina region of NSW. The Lombard Station range of wines are targeted in the mid-lower level of the market. Good quality/value wines suitable for everyday drinking, best with food accompaniment.

The Semillon-Chardonnay 2000 had the weighty nose of Semillon with some lightness at the back of the Chardonnay. There was obvious oak on the entry with good weight on the palate. This is certainly a food wine to match cream sauces & well-marinated white meats.

The Chardonnay 2000 was much lighter in contrast. A nice clean nose with a hint of vanillin & apricot. This Chardonnay had a sweet entry but was light on the palate. It may be enjoyed on its own or with seafood.

The three red wines were made in similar styles. The Merlot, Shiraz & Cabernet Sauvignon 2000s are meant for early drinking with a variety of dishes or on their own. The Merlot had soft tannins making it the best on its own. The Shiraz was somewhat lighter than expected from this warm region. However, the Cabernet Sauvignon showed its heavier tannins & weight, which made it more suited with food.

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Two Rieslings from Reichstrat von Buhl, Pflaz, Germany were presented. Both are Y2000 vintage & of Kabinett quality but one was Trocken, the other Halbtrocken. The Trocken Riesling had green apples on the nose without noticable florals elements. On the palate, it was obviously still young with intense acidity overwhelming any fruit. The Halbtrocken version fared much better. The lightly floral nose of white flowers preceeded a more rounded feel on the palate. Rather mouthfilling but its youthfulness is obvious with still predominating acidity.

These were accompanied by two red wines from Holz Weisbrodt, Pfalz, Germany. the St. Laurent 1999 was a blend of red grapes, possibly Pinot Noir & Gamay. Light raspberry & cherry plum fruit flavours on the nose. On the palate, this straightforward wine was rather light with hints of sour plum. A good summer's drink. The DIABOLO Spatburgunder 1999 expressed more flavours than the first with cherry & violets on the nose. The palate was agreeable & should match well with pork or cheese dominant dishes.

The Lombard Station wines & the German wines are available upon request. From The Ukraine, only the Novy Swet Brut 1998 is currently available.

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