Updated: 28th November 2002

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BORSA VINI SINGAPORE 2002 a WINDOW to ITALIAN WINES The Regent Singapore, 28th November 2002

This is the second time that a large group of Italian wineries have been gathered to introduce their wines to the Singapore Wine Trade. The first Borsa Vini saw an almost unmanageable gathering of over 50 wineries. However, this time around, the numbers have been cut down to just 17 tables. As a one-day event, this still required a palate with tremendous stamina.

Even then, this reviewer decided to shortlist & offer the selected wineries to fully explain their wines & philosophy. Several of the wineries are already represented in Singapore & a passing mention will only be made, in this instance.

Mr. Pierluigi Comelli with guests

TABLE NO: 5  Azienda Agricola COMELLI PAOLINO (Friuli Venezia Giulia)
Mr. Pierluigi Comelli, General Manager, manned this table of wines from the sub-region of Colli Orientali del Friuli, located just across from the Slovenian border. With my fresh palate, I was fully taken in by the refreshing white wines being produced from this cool climate region just off the Austrian Alps.

The TOCAI FRIULANO 2001, an almost local varietal, showed good weight on the palate combining well with ripe acidity. This varietal is not particularly aromatic thus should handle well light meats or fish dishes. The weight is sufficient to stand up to fairly heavy sauces, as well. I felt that the over-ripeness of this wine robbed it of some vital acidity & added just a degree too much alcohol.

The PINOT GRIGIO 2001, on the other hand, showed great improvement from just a few years ago. Italians have realised that ripeness is the key to white wine success. Previously, nervous grapegrowers tended to harvest at the first sign of ripeness, with a wary eye on autumn rains. Nowadays, it appears that some have learnt to take a chance and allow the grape to ripen fully before harvesting. The great improvement is evident in expanding sales of this very Italian white wine in the International market. Friuli is leading the way with this varietal. This Pinot Grigio show good fresh green ripe fruit flavours on the nose, excellent mouthfeel with luscious gripping acidity & nice finish. This is a wine most happily drunk on its own but will happily accompany a range for fresh seafoods culled from the sea about 2 hours drive from these hills. Octopus in olive oil & herbs, a range of shellfish steamed with fragrant herbs or a nice steamed soonhock done Teochew style would be excellent with this wine.

The CHARDONNAY 2001 is 90% stainless steel fermented, then blended with 10% wine that sees a very short time in oak. Again, a refreshing wine similar to Australian unoaked chardonnays with emphasis on freshness, lightness & vibrant acidity.

Moving onto the reds. Here Mr. Comelli offer classical varieties that are now doing well in this progressive region. The MERLOT 2000 was fresh-faced & vibrant with aromas of cherries & a hint of cassis. Only relatively short-term oak ageing are used in the elaboration of his range of red wines. The CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2000 showed the heavier notes typical of this varietal. That extra tannin was evident but quite ripe & agreeable. The SOFFUMBERGO 2000 is a typical Bordeaux-blend of Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon with about 18 months in oak. The longest oak ageing among these red wines. It was a wine with good nose of blackberries combined with fragrant oak that is not domineering. On the palate it showed good fruit that's not over-ripe and a very nice finish.

Producing just 50,000 litres each year, the prices can be considered reasonable with most wines falling at just under S$40.00 retail if available in Singapore.

  Mr. & Mrs. Lino DURANDI

TABLE NO: 7  Casa Vinicola E. ANTONUTTI (Friuli Venezia Giulia)
The next table I selected remains within the Friuli region of North-Eastern Italy. This winery, however, is located in the sub-region of Grave, quite close to the regional capital of Udine. Production is significantly higher than Comelli & the range of products are similarly larger. Mr. Lino Durandi had to make a selection from his range of wines for this exhibition.

I did a quick comparison of two Pinot Grigios from this winery. The first is an IGT (vino de tavola) at 150 hectolitres per hectare yield. The second is a DOC wines with yields at just 90 hectolitres. The sensation was obvious. More flavour, more fruit, more body & a longer finish for the FRIULI GRAVE DOC PINOT GRIGIO 2001. Notwithstanding, the IGT PINOT GRIGIO 2001 held its own with lighter fruit flavours, lighter body and a more lively mouthfeel & finish. It would be an excellent quaffing wine during hot afternoons & evenings just before dinner.

The DOC CHARDONNAY 2001 is all stainless steel, although they do have an oaked version, as well. This is good Chardonnay for drinking on its own or with light or delicate foods.

The DOC SAUVIGNON (BLANC) 2001 hit the familiarity note, immediately! The nose of fragrant gooseberries & grassiness harked to the very familiar Sauvignon Blancs of New Zealand. Antonutti seemed to have captured the right flavours of this wine. A touch lean on the palate in style, the acidity was present but mellow enough without being aggressive. Could have passed as a good Kiwi drop!

His red wines also hit the right notes, showing good concentration without over extraction. Well balanced with good oak integration to emphasise fruit rather than oak. Both the DOC MERLOT 2001 and DOC CABERNET 2001 were very good in the medium price range (S$30-$38) & some competition to similar Australians.

  Aldo Lombardi with his top quality Frascati

TABLE NO: 16  CASALE MARCHESE Azienda Agricola (Lazio)
With such impressive white wines now coming out of North-Eastern Italy, I decided to explore other white wines that may signal improvements, as well. I was not disappointed with FRASCATI SUPERIORE "CASALE MARCHESE" 2001. Frascati is produced on the hills outside Rome. This wine is a blend of Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia Puntinata, Trebbiano Toscano, Bombino & Bellone. Certainly a rare blending style being put into a white wine! But this is traditional FRASCATI, and, in this case,  Frascati in its better presentations. Although this wine continue to lack great aromatics, it is certainly a good wine with good ripeness without going over the top. The freshness of the wine is seen when it is overchilled & would serve as a lovely aperitif wine. As it warms up, some of its grapey flavours come to the fore. The wine take on a heavier note & would now accompany fish dishes with accompanying creamy sauces.

The accompanying RED wines ROSSO "CASALE MARCHESE" 2000 & ROSSO RISERVA "VIGNA CAVALIERE" 1998 are blends of Montepulciano & Cabernet Sauvignon. I preferred the younger Rosso, which offered better fruit/oak integration & easy to drink tannins. I felt the Riserva is overoaked that is evident both on the nose & then, on the palate with drying tannins.

Casale Marchese is certainly a specialist in Frascati but some improvement in methods are needed with their Rosso.

TABLE NO: 14  CAMPOSILIO  (Toscana)
Helmed by their marketing man, Irishman Tony Murray, it was good talking compared with the other tables. Camposlio is located in the Fiesole hills, north-east of Florence. This area is better known for its splendid villas of rich Florentines than wines, as such. However, as with all Italians, wine production is a source of pride. This area is located just outside the DOCG confines of Chianti & Chiant Classico. As such, their wines are sold as simple IGTs. The Rustioni family following the lead of the Antinori family, is intent on producing Super Tuscans.

This may be seen in the style of the wines on offer, here.

I VENTI de CAMPOSILIO 2000 is a pretty wine of 100% Sangiovese with good fruit emphasis, balanced & certainly feminine reflecting the preferences of the Madam. All ready now for consumption & enjoyment, this wine would seamlessly accompany a good Florentine steak or Australian BBQ-beef.

On the other hand, the TOSCANA CAMPOSILIO 1998 & 1999 is the wine of the master of the Villa. A powerpacked wine of 50% Sangiovese & equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, this wine certainly dream of being a Super Tuscan. On the upfront it certainly qualify, however, it lacks a certain tipicity of 'terrior' that will put it on equal status with Sassicaia. The wines are certainly mouthfilling & overwhelming similar to big Aussies. However, they do lack a little for the over-jamminess found among lesser Australian wines, which is a good thing. However, I would rather wait another 3-5 years before enjoying these two wines.

TABLE NO: 4  FRATELLI DE NICOLA  (Piemonte)
From the region of big wines, come this export-orientated winery with 95% of production being sent abroad. They produce only red wines from Langhe Hills of Piemonte, specifically near Monforte d'Alba. This sub-region is known for their Barolos that require longer ageing than those of La Morra. This winery may be considered semi-traditional, using large Slovenian oak casks for the first ageing process before switching to barriques for a short time before bottling.

DOLCETTO D'ALBA 2000 may still not be quite ready for drinking. Showing a firm structure & still agressive tannins, although most Dolcetto are meant for early drinking within 3 years. The good structure of this wine would allow it to accompany red meat main courses, that Dolcetto d'Asti may not do.

NEBBIOLO D'ALBA 1996 is already six years old, but its firm lean structure is still evident. It represents youthful pride & shows off its tannins a little too readily. As such, it currently lack elegance & grace.

The BARBARESCO RISERVA 1996, on the other hand, is more approachable than the Nebbiolo d'Alba. Being from their vineyards in the Barbaresco zone, it showed typical femininity even compared to the Nebbiolo d'Alba. This is drinking well, now & is the most approachable wine from this portfolio.

The BAROLO RISERVA 1996 need a great deal of time before coming around. I hope the fruit will continue to shine while the tannins begin to fade & soften.

  Mr. Winston Yee of Winston Wine Cellar tasting Friuli wines

Overall, a very good showing from many diverse regions in this world's largest producer of wine. My compliments to the Italian Trade Commission for listening to feedback, which have certainly improved its organization of wine events for the benefit of both producers & trade.

I managed a selective tasting of wines from the other tables. These included Primotivo (the purported parent of Zinfandel), Nero d'Avola ( the faddish varietal of Sicily) and 3 styles of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene by BISOL (represented by Excaliber Trading).

I would have liked the luxury of reflecting on the wines at the end of a first day's tasting, then being able to return on the second day to reinforce my first day's impressions. Alas, this is only possible as exhibitions such as Food & Hotel Asia Singapore coming up in April, next year.