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13th June was a heavy day of travel. In the morning, we returned
to the comfort of Mercat de Boquiera's Caffe Univercial for breakfast of
Spanish tortilla with zucchini & potatoes (egg tart), grilled sardines,
seafood rice, sausages & pan-fried mushrooms. What a gourmet feast!!!.
Then, it was off to the main railway station at Sants. This railway station
boasts of 4 restaurants, a chacouterie, 4-star hotel, music shops, department
store, etc within the building. Our train in the 'preferential' cabin, left
busy Sants at 13:00h & arrived in the quiet station of Haro at 20:30h.
Scenes of bright white sands flashed at us between blocks of holiday apartments
as the train travelled south to Tarragona before working its way inland
with views of rugged vineyard plots & hills. The high Pyrenees mountains
provided the backdrop to the view. We got into Haro station without
a taxi in sight!! Quiet panic gripped me since I knew our Hostal is some
2km away in the town centre. Then, a 'saviour' appeared. He helped us
load up our baggage of 4 bags, one knapsack, one briefcase & one precious
portable PC into his Volvo estate. We all piled in the back seat &
off we went, straight to our Hostal Higinia.
Tip: Watch out for quiet railway station stops when with heavy luggage. |
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Thursday morning after a refeshing & comfortable rest,
we were off to our first official appointment with La Rioja Alta S.A. Finally,
I shook hands with Mr. Javier Amescua, Export Manager, after dealing with
him, via fax & e-mail only, for over 6 years. We were warmly received
at the main office, with more fragrant coffee & fresh milk. We reprised
our relationship & Tommy Lam was comprehensively introduced to La Rioja
Alta S.A., one of the most respected wineries of La Rioja.
Then, the grand tour began. Here we see the precious wine ageing the
barrels - some 250,000 barrels in all!
Tip: Wear a warm jacket when you tour a winery. The cellar temperature
will hover at about 15 deg C. |
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La Rioja Alta is one of the few wineries that do manual
racking of the wines. This is done once every SIX months throughout the
barrel ageing process that can last up to 8 years for the Gran Reservas.
No fining or filtering is done with these top quality wines and the natural
sediment is removed over time as the interaction between the lees &
wine is complete. This luxury is only afforded to wineries with good resources
& a healthy respect for tradition.
Tip: They do not claim to be totally biodynamic or organic but respect
for tradition ensures quality wine. |
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Here is a view of the equivalent of an en-premier market
for La Rioja Alta wines. Each of these lockers contain wines belonging to
an exclusive club of about 75 Spaniards, who obtain their yearly allocation
before everyone else. Currently open to Spanish residents only.
Tip: Be a Spanish resident to qualify. |
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The part of the tour that everyone looks forward to. The
wine tasting. Mr. Amescua personally led us through the tasting of the current
vintages of Lagar de Cervera Albarino 2000, Vine Alberdi Reserva 1997, Vina
Arana Reserva 1995, Vina Ardanza Reserva 1995, 904 Gran Reserva 1990 &
Baron de Ona Reserva 1995. Lagar de Cervera Albarino is the only white wine
produced by La Rioja Alta. All the other wines are red and are, at least,
of Reserva standard. Each of the Reserva wines have their own style &
characteristics. Watch out for our tutored tasting, due soon, at Cafe de
Amigo of this range of wines.
Tip: Differentiate between those who make wine & those who create
masterpieces, each year. |
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Here Remie Law watches with intense anticipation as Mr. Javier
Amescua work the corkscrew with efficiency. Briefly, the white Albarino
is fresh & fragrant, perfect with seafood & cold meats. Vina Alberdi
works well with just about any food or on its own. Its elements are fully
integrated with fine balance. The Vina Arana is elegant. The most well-known
is Vina Ardanza, quiet power & marvelous balance. The Gran Reserva 904
is soft fruit & unmatched complexity. The Baron de Ona is 'modern' in
style reflecting its singe vineyard terrior of Rioja Alavesa.
Tip: Good grapes is essential for good wine. No compromises by La Rioja
Alta. |
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A glimpse of the precious vineyards of Torre de Ona &
source of Baron de Ona wines. The vines are not on hung on wires but cut
as individual vines.
Tip: Vine growing methods reflect the terrior. |
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The finale of a warm welcome. We were treated to a sumptuous
lunch at the private dining room of Torre de Ona with their own in-house
Basque chef. An array of Riojan tapas were accompanied by Albarino. Starters
was a compote of seasonal vegetables cooked to perfection. The roast lamb
was crispy on the outside & tender, inside. All matched with Baron de
Ona Reserva 1995.
Tip: Such privileges come with who you know. |
