Updated: 15 April 2006
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14^th CONCORSO ENOLOGICO INTERNAZIONALE 
40^th VINITALY, Verona-Italy
28 March – 02 April 2006

 a pictorial report of the proceedings by a member of the JURY from Singapore

THE ZONIN DINNER

An air of conspiracy seem to surround Frank Schoonhoven, our amiable Dutchman, as our Saturday 'free' night approached. He whispered, "Eight o'clock", to a select few and then, moved on. However, it was only at 08:40pm that the group managed to gather at the hotel lobby for a short brisk walk to ANTICO BOTTEGA DEL VINO. It was an arrangement that is able to cater for only 12 wine writers among the 40-odd number at the Competition.

We turn off half-way along the most fashionable VIA MAZZINI, lined with top-class boutiques, into an alleyway. There it was, the side showcase presented a row of vintaged Chateau Petrus bottles and some other Italian wine. Empty, of course! The tightly-strung swing door allowed just about one person to enter at-a-time. However, upon entry, the scene presented in front of you drip of "classical", "old world" charm. You look closer and wait-a-minute, the wait staff are young and the several rather comely & smiling at you! But I am already familiar with this very 'local' haunt for lovers of wine and hearty Veronese fare, being introduced to its charms in 2004.

Those here for the first time "Oohh!!ed and AAhh!!ed" as they were led straight to an almost secretive stone stairway leading underground. One squeezed between the cold wall and their working and hot Expresso machine, turned once, then, twice, then a scene from wine heaven appear before you. Rows upon rows of bin-shelves pack full with wine bottles in various formats and labels that are no longer in print. A single wooden carton here, several of the same there, all scrawled with some name and a year, long, long ago. An old wooden chest, its wide drawers pulled out and lined with almost faded labels. You peer through the semi-darkness and you see the name ...... Domaine de la Romanee Conti. Then, you blink twice and then again when you discern the vintages. You shake your head and finally look up at Frank. With him, as another Frank, but call him Franco, instead. This was Franco Giacosa, Group Eonologist of Zonin, the largest family-run wine conglomerate in Italy. His English flowed steadily as he engaged in small talk and acknowledge each person in our group of 12.

Camera flashes finally stopped, we eventually settled onto our own wooden chair set against a fairly large & sturdy log table. Our arms barely brushing against the stored bottles around us. Judiciously, I stayed well away from them and sat next to the service area. I simply cannot afford an expensive accident!

We started the evening off with the Bottega's own Prosecco, a delightful & refreshing drink, light with a touch of creaminess.

Thus, Franco began our introduction to the much revived wine empire of the ZONIN brothers. Upon taking up his position as Group Eonologist, Franco began to identify and select various plots of their holdings for special treatment. Some acquisitions also occurred during this period and plenty of replanting ensued.

The first of the wines has just been bottled and not yet released. We were the first to sample this Fiano varietal grown in the Puglia region rather than in its native grounds in Campania - MASSERIA ALTEMURA FIANO 2005. Perhaps a little shocked from the recent bottling trauma, the wine showed reticent but enticing aromas of white flowers & quince. On the palate, the flavours broaden out gradually as it warms in the mouth, still a little unbalanced. However, one senses the potential in this wine as it sits on your palate. We were served air-dried horsemeat in fillaments on a base of fresh greens. An unusual combination but the horsemeat was light & airy in flavour that did nothing to overwhelm the white wine.

Then, the pasta course arrived and much conversation took over the proceedings. This happens when you seat people from Hungary, Malaysia, South Africa, India, Israel, Singapore, Holland, China ..... an oh! Italy, of course, on one table with good bottles of wine & good food. Our next wine was BERENGARIO, a red Venezian IGT of Cabernet, Merlot & a touch of local Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. The bouquet is enchantingly full and complex that gave omph! to the pasta course of Gnocchi stuffed with ham & other meats, topped with creamy Gorgonzola cheese sauce.

The vitello (veal) main course was accompanied by Franco's favourite grape, NERO d'AVOLA from the Feudo Principi di Butera Estate in Sicily. This time from the Zonin estates, which had intense & spicy aromas of ripe cherries, blackberries & blackcurrants. In the mouth, the wine was full-bodied and harmonious with a touch of Mediterranean herbs.

An excellent ending to the evening was the lusciously sweet PODERE IL GIANGIO RECIOTO DE GAMBELLARA CLASSICO, made from air-dried berries from their home estate in Veneto.

As we prepared to depart, Franco Giacosa imparted a small gift that reflected his love from Sicily. Each of us received the book "MY SICILIAN COOKING" written by his favourite Sicilian Chef, Nino Graziano. What a remembrance of a delightful evening in the wine cellars of ANTICO BOTTEGA DEL VINO, Verona, ITALY!

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